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August 16, 2009-Your worst day of surfing is still better than your best day at work
Posted August 17th, 2009 by Audie
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That is the quote I heard from one of the funny gents in the water this morning. It was clean, glassy, warm, and super small and weak. After a very long day and night, waking up to glassy water, during the summer, with a marine layer still clinging above in the high skies, it was 100% necessary to hop into the car and head two blocks down to check it and freshen up.

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Surfing...heaven here and now, no need to wait for it, we already live in it
Posted August 10th, 2009 by Audie
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This evening was one of those surf sessions that define the terms shock and awe. To stand above on the cliff, looking down on something that looks a little bit unappealing, knowing that no matter how it is, we drove out here, so there is no way we are not getting in the water.

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August 5th, 2009~How is it August already?!
Posted August 7th, 2009 by Audie
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Man, I can’t believe we are in August. Loving life and spending almost every day in the water for whatever length of time I can has been serving me quite well. I am so fortunate for the long days with extended hours of daylight so I can get in a surf session almost every day. I surfed the same spot again today, but I keep thinking about how I need to go elsewhere.

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Start surfing... Again!
Posted July 26th, 2009 by peter
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When i wasn't surfing i thought I wasn't a surfer. Life gets in the way. Its a fact of surfing for the vast majority of us. Either an injury, a new job / relocation, your family... there are lots of forksin the road in a surfers life that lead us into dry terrain but surviving the drought, negotiating the troubled (lack of) waters, and overcoming lifes challenges are part of BEING a surfer.

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Summer swells and warm water
Posted July 25th, 2009 by Audie
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Well, today was a good day for surf at my favorite spot. Good waves with good friends, nothing but slapping down on my rear end on every wave, but hey, you can't have the accomplishment without the challenge, right?

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Usually a surfboard under 7 feet with a sharply tapered nose, three fins, and built for performance and/or tricks. Countless variations exist with anywhere from 1 to 5 fins and various shapes. Generally ridden by younger, lighter surfers. Often ridden by people who are not ready for them which causes the side effects of crippling their style and fluidity while making bad habits harder to unlearn later. Many shortboarders would be happier on an egg, longboard, fish, or "fun" board but cant get over the need to be cool. Their maneuverability, makes mind blowing things possible but it comes at a price. They are harder to surf well, harder to catch waves on, and break easier but arguably more challenging and rewarding.

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