That is the quote I heard from one of the funny gents in the water this morning. It was clean, glassy, warm, and super small and weak. After a very long day and night, waking up to glassy water, during the summer, with a marine layer still clinging above in the high skies, it was 100% necessary to hop into the car and head two blocks down to check it and freshen up.
This evening was one of those surf sessions that define the terms shock and awe. To stand above on the cliff, looking down on something that looks a little bit unappealing, knowing that no matter how it is, we drove out here, so there is no way we are not getting in the water.
Man, I can’t believe we are in August. Loving life and spending almost every day in the water for whatever length of time I can has been serving me quite well. I am so fortunate for the long days with extended hours of daylight so I can get in a surf session almost every day. I surfed the same spot again today, but I keep thinking about how I need to go elsewhere.
When i wasn't surfing i thought I wasn't a surfer. Life gets in the way. Its a fact of surfing for the vast majority of us. Either an injury, a new job / relocation, your family... there are lots of forksin the road in a surfers life that lead us into dry terrain but surviving the drought, negotiating the troubled (lack of) waters, and overcoming lifes challenges are part of BEING a surfer.
Well, today was a good day for surf at my favorite spot. Good waves with good friends, nothing but slapping down on my rear end on every wave, but hey, you can't have the accomplishment without the challenge, right?